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  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A view of the historical center of  Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5670.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A man rides his scooter by the Basilica of Saint Nicholas (left) in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5480.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A pasta maker is seen here at her doorstep in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4588.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Michele Fanelli (58),  a protector of the local dialect who offers classes in orecchiette making, poses for a portrait in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5761.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A view of the touristic port of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5680.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A view of the historical center of  Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5660.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Maurizio Triggiani (51), a lecturer of medieval art history at the university of Bari, poses for a portrait n Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5614.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Maurizio Triggiani (51), a lecturer of medieval art history at the university of Bari, poses for a portrait n Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5612.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Customers have orecchiette at the Osteria delle Travi, which serves orecchiette sourced from an elderly woman, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5587.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A waiter is seen here before stepping out of the kitchen of the Osteria delle Travi, which serves orecchiette sourced from an elderly woman, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5566.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: The entrance of the Osteria delle Travi, which serves orecchiette sourced from an elderly woman, is seen here in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5552.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: The orecchiette made by Nunzia Caputo (61) are seen here on the mesh screen of a wooden tray outisde her home in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5218.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5159.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) prepares orecchiete in her apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5039.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Orecchiette made by Nunzia Caputo (61) are seen here on her kitchen table in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5026.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4898.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Franca Fiore (88), Nunzia Caputo's mother, is seen here sitting at the table where where prepares home-made pasta, such as orecchiete (in the back), in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4824.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Nunzia Caputo (61, center) moves the wooden tray containing home-made orecchiete at her doorstep as she serves a customer (left) in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4788.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64), a pasta maker, is seen here inside her home in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4778.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64) is seen here at her doorstep where she sells orecchiette and other types of home-made pasta, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4685.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Angella Lastella (64), a pasta maker, and Michele Fanelli (58),  a protector of the local dialect who offers classes in orecchiette making, are seen here together at Mrs Lastella's doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4667.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64) is seen here at her doorstep where she sells orecchiette (right) and taralli (left) in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4645.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Home-products, such as orecchiette, taralli crackers and sun-dried tomatoes, are sold in front of a pasta maker's home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4605.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Home-products, such as orecchiette, taralli crackers and sun-dried tomatoes, are sold in front of a pasta maker's home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4576.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) is seen here together with a local guide (2nd from left) and nursery school children on a field trip to the pasta street in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4534.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) places her home-made orecchette outside her home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4441.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A pigeon is seen here standing on a wooden tray containing home-made orecchiette for sale in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4434.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: The orecchiette made by Angela Lastella (64) are seen here on the mesh screen of a wooden tray outisde her home in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4365.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A man rides his bicycle in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiette pasta makers sell their home-made products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4354.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Michele Fanelli (58),  a protector of the local dialect who offers classes in orecchiette making, poses for a portrait in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5737.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Michele Fanelli (58),  a protector of the local dialect who offers classes in orecchiette making, poses for a portrait in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5714.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Maurizio Triggiani (51), a lecturer of medieval art history at the university of Bari, poses for a portrait n Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5626.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Maurizio Triggiani (51), a lecturer of medieval art history at the university of Bari, poses for a portrait n Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5620.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Customers have lunch at the Osteria delle Travi, which serves orecchiette sourced from an elderly woman, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5559.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A Nativity scene sign is seen above a banner advertising fresh home-made orecchiette in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5546.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A womman walks by the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5522.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A womman walks by the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5504.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A man walks by the Basilica of Saint Nicholas (left) in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5449.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A man walks in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5447.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Customers are seen here purchasing home-made products from a pasta maker in via dell'Arco Basso, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5358.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Vittoria (82), a pasta maker, is seen her selling her home-made orecchiette at her doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5316.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Vittoria (82), a pasta maker,poses for a portrait as she sells her home-made orecchiette at her doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5283.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Vittoria (82), a pasta maker, is seen her selling her home-made orecchiette at her doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5277.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: The orecchiette made by Nunzia Caputo (61) are seen here on the mesh screen of a wooden tray outisde her home in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5208.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5152.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (from top) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4992.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) prepares the dough for orecchiette in her apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4930.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4867.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A customer seen here from the apartment of Nunzia Caputo, a pasta maker, after purchasing orecchiette in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4812.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Nunzia Caputo (61) fills a bag of orecchioni (a bigger version of orecchiette) for a customer at her doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4799.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64), a pasta maker, is seen here inside her home in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4767.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64) is seen here at her doorstep where she sells orecchiette and other types of home-made pasta, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4728.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (Clockwise, from top left) Orecchiette, cavatelli and orecchioni made by Angela Lastella (64) are seen here on the mesh screen of a wooden tray outside her home in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4661.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A customer is seen here here puchasing home-made products, as a pigeon stands on the wooden tray containing orecchiette pasta, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4619.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Home-products, such as orecchiette, taralli crackers and sun-dried tomatoes, are sold in front of a pasta maker's home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4608.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A pasta maker is seen here at her doorstep in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4568.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, center) cooes at local nursery school children on a field trip to the pasta street in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4485.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) places her home-made orecchette outside her home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4460.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) chats with a passerby as she places her home-made pasta outside her home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4456.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A pigeon is seen here standing on a wooden tray containing home-made orecchiette for sale in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4438.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) places her home-made orecchiette outside her home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4358.jpg
  • PRATO, ITALY - 27 NOVEMBER 2019: The fabric fabric produced in the Tronci textile factory, a supplier of Marini Industrie, is seen here in Prato, Italy, on November 27th 2019.<br />
<br />
Italy has proved especially vulnerable to China’s emergence as a manufacturing juggernaut, given that many of its artisanal trades -- textiles, leather, shoe-making -- have long been dominated by small, family-run businesses that lacked the scale to compete on price with factories in a nation of 1.4 billion people. <br />
In recent years, four Italian regions that were as late as the 1980s electing Communists and then reliably supported center-left candidates -- Tuscany, Umbria, Marche and Emilia-Romagna  -- have swung dramatically to the extreme right. Many working class people say that delineation has it backwards: The left abandoned them, not the other way around. <br />
<br />
Between 2001 and 2011, Prato’s 6,000 textile companies shrunk to 3,000, and those employed by the plants plunged from 40,000 to 19,000, according to Confindustria, the leading Italian industrial trade association. As Prato’s factories went dark, people began arriving from China - mostly from the coastal city of Wenzhou, famed for its industriousness - to exploit an opportunity.<br />
They set up sewing machines across the concrete floors and imported fabric from factories in China. They sewed clothes, cannily imitating the styles of Italian fashion brands. They affixed a valuable label to their creations: “Made In Italy”.
    CIPG_20191127_NYT_Italy-Cris_M3_3409.jpg
  • PRATO, ITALY - 27 NOVEMBER 2019: The weaving of a fabric is seen here in the Tronci textile factory, a supplier of Marini Industrie, in Prato, Italy, on November 27th 2019.<br />
<br />
Italy has proved especially vulnerable to China’s emergence as a manufacturing juggernaut, given that many of its artisanal trades -- textiles, leather, shoe-making -- have long been dominated by small, family-run businesses that lacked the scale to compete on price with factories in a nation of 1.4 billion people. <br />
In recent years, four Italian regions that were as late as the 1980s electing Communists and then reliably supported center-left candidates -- Tuscany, Umbria, Marche and Emilia-Romagna  -- have swung dramatically to the extreme right. Many working class people say that delineation has it backwards: The left abandoned them, not the other way around. <br />
<br />
Between 2001 and 2011, Prato’s 6,000 textile companies shrunk to 3,000, and those employed by the plants plunged from 40,000 to 19,000, according to Confindustria, the leading Italian industrial trade association. As Prato’s factories went dark, people began arriving from China - mostly from the coastal city of Wenzhou, famed for its industriousness - to exploit an opportunity.<br />
They set up sewing machines across the concrete floors and imported fabric from factories in China. They sewed clothes, cannily imitating the styles of Italian fashion brands. They affixed a valuable label to their creations: “Made In Italy”.
    CIPG_20191127_NYT_Italy-Cris_M3_3367.jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 10 OCTOBER 2018: A wine supplier of La Taverna a Santa Chiara is seen here at the entrance of the tavern in the historical center of Naples, Italy, on October 10th 2018.<br />
<br />
The idea of the founders Nives Monda and Potito Izzo (two really unusual names in southern Italy) was to create a “taste gate" of Campania products. La Taverna a Santa Chiara, founded in 2013, is a modern tavern whose strengths are the choice of regional and seasonal products and mostly small producers. Small restaurant, small producers.<br />
The two partners tried to put producers and consumers in direct contact, skipping the distribution, and managing to reduce the costs of the products considerably. Nives and Potito managed to create a simple kitchen, at moderate costs but with high quality raw materials.<br />
"A different restaurant idea," says Nives, "the producers deliver their products at low prices and the tavern manages to make traditional dishes with niche products".<br />
Nives Monda has been a labor consultant for 20 years. Potito Izzo is the chef who has always been loyal to the  family cuisine. When he embraced the idea of Nives he found in the tavern the natural place to express the tradition of Neapolitan cuisine. Nives defines him as a "comfort food chef". Their partnership is a true friendship that has lasted for over 10 years.
    CIPG_20181010_CULBACK_TavernaSantaCh...jpg
  • PRATO, ITALY - 27 NOVEMBER 2019: The fabric fabric produced in the Tronci textile factory, a supplier of Marini Industrie, is seen here in Prato, Italy, on November 27th 2019.<br />
<br />
Italy has proved especially vulnerable to China’s emergence as a manufacturing juggernaut, given that many of its artisanal trades -- textiles, leather, shoe-making -- have long been dominated by small, family-run businesses that lacked the scale to compete on price with factories in a nation of 1.4 billion people. <br />
In recent years, four Italian regions that were as late as the 1980s electing Communists and then reliably supported center-left candidates -- Tuscany, Umbria, Marche and Emilia-Romagna  -- have swung dramatically to the extreme right. Many working class people say that delineation has it backwards: The left abandoned them, not the other way around. <br />
<br />
Between 2001 and 2011, Prato’s 6,000 textile companies shrunk to 3,000, and those employed by the plants plunged from 40,000 to 19,000, according to Confindustria, the leading Italian industrial trade association. As Prato’s factories went dark, people began arriving from China - mostly from the coastal city of Wenzhou, famed for its industriousness - to exploit an opportunity.<br />
They set up sewing machines across the concrete floors and imported fabric from factories in China. They sewed clothes, cannily imitating the styles of Italian fashion brands. They affixed a valuable label to their creations: “Made In Italy”.
    CIPG_20191127_NYT_Italy-Cris_M3_3405.jpg
  • PRATO, ITALY - 27 NOVEMBER 2019: A man is seen here at work in the Tronci textile factory, a supplier of Marini Industrie, in Prato, Italy, on November 27th 2019.<br />
<br />
Italy has proved especially vulnerable to China’s emergence as a manufacturing juggernaut, given that many of its artisanal trades -- textiles, leather, shoe-making -- have long been dominated by small, family-run businesses that lacked the scale to compete on price with factories in a nation of 1.4 billion people. <br />
In recent years, four Italian regions that were as late as the 1980s electing Communists and then reliably supported center-left candidates -- Tuscany, Umbria, Marche and Emilia-Romagna  -- have swung dramatically to the extreme right. Many working class people say that delineation has it backwards: The left abandoned them, not the other way around. <br />
<br />
Between 2001 and 2011, Prato’s 6,000 textile companies shrunk to 3,000, and those employed by the plants plunged from 40,000 to 19,000, according to Confindustria, the leading Italian industrial trade association. As Prato’s factories went dark, people began arriving from China - mostly from the coastal city of Wenzhou, famed for its industriousness - to exploit an opportunity.<br />
They set up sewing machines across the concrete floors and imported fabric from factories in China. They sewed clothes, cannily imitating the styles of Italian fashion brands. They affixed a valuable label to their creations: “Made In Italy”.
    CIPG_20191127_NYT_Italy-Cris_M3_3400.jpg
  • PRATO, ITALY - 27 NOVEMBER 2019: The weaving of a fabric is seen here in the Tronci textile factory, a supplier of Marini Industrie, in Prato, Italy, on November 27th 2019.<br />
<br />
Italy has proved especially vulnerable to China’s emergence as a manufacturing juggernaut, given that many of its artisanal trades -- textiles, leather, shoe-making -- have long been dominated by small, family-run businesses that lacked the scale to compete on price with factories in a nation of 1.4 billion people. <br />
In recent years, four Italian regions that were as late as the 1980s electing Communists and then reliably supported center-left candidates -- Tuscany, Umbria, Marche and Emilia-Romagna  -- have swung dramatically to the extreme right. Many working class people say that delineation has it backwards: The left abandoned them, not the other way around. <br />
<br />
Between 2001 and 2011, Prato’s 6,000 textile companies shrunk to 3,000, and those employed by the plants plunged from 40,000 to 19,000, according to Confindustria, the leading Italian industrial trade association. As Prato’s factories went dark, people began arriving from China - mostly from the coastal city of Wenzhou, famed for its industriousness - to exploit an opportunity.<br />
They set up sewing machines across the concrete floors and imported fabric from factories in China. They sewed clothes, cannily imitating the styles of Italian fashion brands. They affixed a valuable label to their creations: “Made In Italy”.
    CIPG_20191127_NYT_Italy-Cris_M3_3389.jpg
  • PRATO, ITALY - 27 NOVEMBER 2019: A woman is seen here at work in the Tronci textile factory, a supplier of Marini Industrie, in Prato, Italy, on November 27th 2019.<br />
<br />
Italy has proved especially vulnerable to China’s emergence as a manufacturing juggernaut, given that many of its artisanal trades -- textiles, leather, shoe-making -- have long been dominated by small, family-run businesses that lacked the scale to compete on price with factories in a nation of 1.4 billion people. <br />
In recent years, four Italian regions that were as late as the 1980s electing Communists and then reliably supported center-left candidates -- Tuscany, Umbria, Marche and Emilia-Romagna  -- have swung dramatically to the extreme right. Many working class people say that delineation has it backwards: The left abandoned them, not the other way around. <br />
<br />
Between 2001 and 2011, Prato’s 6,000 textile companies shrunk to 3,000, and those employed by the plants plunged from 40,000 to 19,000, according to Confindustria, the leading Italian industrial trade association. As Prato’s factories went dark, people began arriving from China - mostly from the coastal city of Wenzhou, famed for its industriousness - to exploit an opportunity.<br />
They set up sewing machines across the concrete floors and imported fabric from factories in China. They sewed clothes, cannily imitating the styles of Italian fashion brands. They affixed a valuable label to their creations: “Made In Italy”.
    CIPG_20191127_NYT_Italy-Cris_M3_3349.jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 10 OCTOBER 2018: A waiter and a wine supplier of La Taverna a Santa Chiara are seen here at the entrance of the tavern in the historical center of Naples, Italy, on October 10th 2018.<br />
<br />
The idea of the founders Nives Monda and Potito Izzo (two really unusual names in southern Italy) was to create a “taste gate" of Campania products. La Taverna a Santa Chiara, founded in 2013, is a modern tavern whose strengths are the choice of regional and seasonal products and mostly small producers. Small restaurant, small producers.<br />
The two partners tried to put producers and consumers in direct contact, skipping the distribution, and managing to reduce the costs of the products considerably. Nives and Potito managed to create a simple kitchen, at moderate costs but with high quality raw materials.<br />
"A different restaurant idea," says Nives, "the producers deliver their products at low prices and the tavern manages to make traditional dishes with niche products".<br />
Nives Monda has been a labor consultant for 20 years. Potito Izzo is the chef who has always been loyal to the  family cuisine. When he embraced the idea of Nives he found in the tavern the natural place to express the tradition of Neapolitan cuisine. Nives defines him as a "comfort food chef". Their partnership is a true friendship that has lasted for over 10 years.
    SMAS_20181010_CULBACK_SantaChiara_DS...jpg
  • 8 January, 2009. Vicchio, FI, Italy. A map of Italy in the office of Il Forteto shows its outlets, milk suppliers and forwarding points. The Agricultura Cooperativa "Il Forteto" is a lauded producer of traditional Italian cheeses, recognized world over for their pecorino, winning first place of all DOP cheese at Tuttofood International in Milan for their Pecorino Oro Antico, and a gold medal in the Hard DOP Cheese class at 2009's World Cheese Awards in Gran Canaria.<br />
<br />
©2009 Gianni Cipriano<br />
cell. +1 646 465 2168 (USA)<br />
cell. +39 328 567 7923<br />
gianni@giannicipriano.com<br />
www.giannicipriano.com
    CIPG_20100108_CULTURE-Forteto__MG_57...jpg
  • 8 January, 2009. Vicchio, FI, Italy. A map of Italy in the office of Il Forteto shows its outlets, milk suppliers and forwarding points. The Agricultura Cooperativa "Il Forteto" is a lauded producer of traditional Italian cheeses, recognized world over for their pecorino, winning first place of all DOP cheese at Tuttofood International in Milan for their Pecorino Oro Antico, and a gold medal in the Hard DOP Cheese class at 2009's World Cheese Awards in Gran Canaria.<br />
<br />
©2009 Gianni Cipriano<br />
cell. +1 646 465 2168 (USA)<br />
cell. +39 328 567 7923<br />
gianni@giannicipriano.com<br />
www.giannicipriano.com
    CIPG_20100108_CULTURE-Forteto__MG_57...jpg