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  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Home-products, such as orecchiette, taralli crackers and sun-dried tomatoes, are sold in front of a pasta maker's home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4605.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A man rides his bicycle in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiette pasta makers sell their home-made products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4354.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Vittoria (82), a pasta maker,poses for a portrait as she sells her home-made orecchiette at her doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5283.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Vittoria (82), a pasta maker, is seen her selling her home-made orecchiette at her doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5277.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64), a pasta maker, is seen here inside her home in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4778.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64), a pasta maker, is seen here inside her home in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4767.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Angella Lastella (64), a pasta maker, and Michele Fanelli (58),  a protector of the local dialect who offers classes in orecchiette making, are seen here together at Mrs Lastella's doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4667.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A customer is seen here here puchasing home-made products, as a pigeon stands on the wooden tray containing orecchiette pasta, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4619.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A pasta maker is seen here at her doorstep in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4588.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Home-products, such as orecchiette, taralli crackers and sun-dried tomatoes, are sold in front of a pasta maker's home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4576.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A pasta maker is seen here at her doorstep in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4568.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) chats with a passerby as she places her home-made pasta outside her home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4456.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A view of the historical center of  Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5670.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: The entrance of the Osteria delle Travi, which serves orecchiette sourced from an elderly woman, is seen here in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5552.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Customers are seen here purchasing home-made products from a pasta maker in via dell'Arco Basso, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5358.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Vittoria (82), a pasta maker, is seen her selling her home-made orecchiette at her doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5316.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Franca Fiore (88), Nunzia Caputo's mother, is seen here sitting at the table where where prepares home-made pasta, such as orecchiete (in the back), in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4824.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A customer seen here from the apartment of Nunzia Caputo, a pasta maker, after purchasing orecchiette in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4812.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64) is seen here at her doorstep where she sells orecchiette and other types of home-made pasta, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4728.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64) is seen here at her doorstep where she sells orecchiette and other types of home-made pasta, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4685.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Home-products, such as orecchiette, taralli crackers and sun-dried tomatoes, are sold in front of a pasta maker's home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4608.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) is seen here together with a local guide (2nd from left) and nursery school children on a field trip to the pasta street in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4534.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, center) cooes at local nursery school children on a field trip to the pasta street in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4485.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A view of the touristic port of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5680.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Maurizio Triggiani (51), a lecturer of medieval art history at the university of Bari, poses for a portrait n Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5612.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Customers have orecchiette at the Osteria delle Travi, which serves orecchiette sourced from an elderly woman, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5587.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A waiter is seen here before stepping out of the kitchen of the Osteria delle Travi, which serves orecchiette sourced from an elderly woman, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5566.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Orecchiette made by Nunzia Caputo (61) are seen here on her kitchen table in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5026.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (from top) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4992.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4898.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Nunzia Caputo (61, center) moves the wooden tray containing home-made orecchiete at her doorstep as she serves a customer (left) in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4788.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64) is seen here at her doorstep where she sells orecchiette (right) and taralli (left) in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4645.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) places her home-made orecchette outside her home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4441.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A pigeon is seen here standing on a wooden tray containing home-made orecchiette for sale in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4434.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Michele Fanelli (58),  a protector of the local dialect who offers classes in orecchiette making, poses for a portrait in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5761.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Michele Fanelli (58),  a protector of the local dialect who offers classes in orecchiette making, poses for a portrait in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5714.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Maurizio Triggiani (51), a lecturer of medieval art history at the university of Bari, poses for a portrait n Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5626.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Maurizio Triggiani (51), a lecturer of medieval art history at the university of Bari, poses for a portrait n Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5620.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A Nativity scene sign is seen above a banner advertising fresh home-made orecchiette in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5546.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A womman walks by the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5522.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A womman walks by the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5504.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A man rides his scooter by the Basilica of Saint Nicholas (left) in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5480.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A man walks by the Basilica of Saint Nicholas (left) in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5449.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A man walks in the historical center of Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5447.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: The orecchiette made by Nunzia Caputo (61) are seen here on the mesh screen of a wooden tray outisde her home in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5208.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5159.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5152.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) prepares the dough for orecchiette in her apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4930.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Nunzia Caputo (61) fills a bag of orecchioni (a bigger version of orecchiette) for a customer at her doorstep in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4799.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (Clockwise, from top left) Orecchiette, cavatelli and orecchioni made by Angela Lastella (64) are seen here on the mesh screen of a wooden tray outside her home in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4661.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) places her home-made orecchette outside her home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4460.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A pigeon is seen here standing on a wooden tray containing home-made orecchiette for sale in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4438.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Angela Lastella (64, left) places her home-made orecchiette outside her home in via dell'Arco Basso, the street where orecchiete makers sell their products, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4358.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Michele Fanelli (58),  a protector of the local dialect who offers classes in orecchiette making, poses for a portrait in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5737.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: A view of the historical center of  Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5660.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Maurizio Triggiani (51), a lecturer of medieval art history at the university of Bari, poses for a portrait n Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5614.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: Customers have lunch at the Osteria delle Travi, which serves orecchiette sourced from an elderly woman, in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5559.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: The orecchiette made by Nunzia Caputo (61) are seen here on the mesh screen of a wooden tray outisde her home in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5218.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) prepares orecchiete in her apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_5039.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: (L-R) Nunzia Caputo (61) and her mother Franca Fiore (88) are seen here preparing orecchiete in their apartment in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4867.jpg
  • BARI - 3 DECEMBER 2019: The orecchiette made by Angela Lastella (64) are seen here on the mesh screen of a wooden tray outisde her home in via dell'Arco Basso in Bari, Italy, on December 3rd 2019.<br />
<br />
The orecchiette are Bari's trademark ear-shaped pasta.<br />
<br />
According to the mayor’s office, in mid October police inspectors busted a local restaurant for serving untraceable orecchiette, a violation of Italian and European Union regulations that require food in restaurants to be clearly sourced. The police fined the restaurateur and forced him to trash three kilos of pasta.<br />
The suspected orecchiette suppliers are permitted to sell small plastic baggies of pasta for personal use, but are not licensed to deal large, unlabeled shipments to restaurants. The fear in a city where many families have their go-to pasta lady, is that Italy’s zeal for regulations, however often ignored, risk shutting down a source of local pride that is one of Bari’s biggest tourist attractions.
    CIPG_20191203_NYT_Bari_M3_4365.jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Pasta with potatoes and provola cheese is seen here at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: Co-founder Grazia (60) chooses a Setaro pasta, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    SMAS_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_DSCF8...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: Co-founder Grazia (60) chooses a Setaro pasta, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    SMAS_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_DSCF8...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: The Pasta Setaro, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, is seen here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_58...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: The Pasta Setaro, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, is seen here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_57...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: The Pasta Setaro, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, is seen here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_58...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Fried panzarotti, crocchè and vegatable are seen here at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Fried panzarotti, crocchè and vegatable are seen here at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Spaghetti with clams are seen here at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Beppe Sica, the pizzaiolo (pizza maker) of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, prepares a pizza,  in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Chef Gaetano Bianchini (left), Mario Bianchini's son, is seen here stepping out of the kitchen of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Chef Gaetano Bianchini, Mario Bianchini's son, cooks in the kitchen of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Beppe Sica, the pizzaiolo (pizza maker) of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, jokes around with a local resident in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Francesco Bianchini, Mario Bianchini's son, takes orders from customers at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • SAN PIETRO VERNOTICO, ITALY - 4 APRIL 2014: Cinzia Rascazzo (40, center), founder of a Lecce cooking and food-tour outfit called Stile Mediterraneo, prepares fresh tagliatelle pasta with a tool called "chitarra" (which translates as guitar, since it has strings that are used to shape the pasta, at her parents' home and school location in San Pietro Vernotico, Italy, on April 4th 2014.<br />
<br />
Mrs Rascazzo, an extra virgin oil taster, wine sommelier and Harvard MBA who worked for Goldman Sachs in New York and London, quit investment banking several years ago to “do something to help my region”.“When I was living abroad I always noticed that only Tuscany and Northern Italian regions were getting all of the attention,” said Ms. Rascazzo. “Nobody knew about Puglia or our way of eating, or our wines, or our producers. It was just Mafia, pizza spaghetti--the usual things associated with the south.” Today she conducts food tours, leads visits to local producers and oversees cooking classes, where guests learn to make orecchiette, sweet-and-sour bell peppers, cakes with ricotta cheese and much besides. She is frequently joined by her sister, who draws on her medical background to impart scientific and nutritional details about the dishes. Dr. Rascazzo’s recipes and information come together in her English ebook, “The Cuisine of Southern Italian Women: Mediterranean Secrets for a Healthy and Happy Life.”
    CIPG_20140404_NYT_LecceCooking__M3_5...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: The Pasta Setaro, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, is seen here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_57...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: The Pasta Setaro, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, is seen here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_57...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: The Pasta Setaro, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, is seen here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_57...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: The Pasta Setaro, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, is seen here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_57...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: The Pasta Setaro, the best known and appreciated artisan pasta in southern Italy, is seen here at Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
<br />
Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
<br />
The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_57...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Beppe Sica, the pizzaiolo (pizza maker) of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, prepares a pizza,  in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    SMAS_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_DS...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Customers are seen here in the terrace of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    SMAS_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_DS...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Customers are seen here in the terrace of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    SMAS_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_DS...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019:  Children are seen here in the terrace of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    SMAS_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_DS...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Francesco Bianchini, Mario Bianchini's son, is seen here at the entrance of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: A girl looks at chef Gaetano Bianchini working in the kitchen of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Fried calamari are seen here at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Francesco Bianchini, Mario Bianchini's son, is seen here managing orders at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019:  Mussels are seen here at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Paccheri  with Baccalà (salted codffish) are seen here at the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Chef Gaetano Bianchini, Mario Bianchini's son, cooks in the kitchen of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
<br />
The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Customers are seen here at the entrance of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
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The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: A view of Mount Vesuvius is seen here from the terrace of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
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The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • NAPLES, ITALY - 13 JULY 2019: Chef Gaetano Bianchini (left), Mario Bianchini's son, is seen here stepping out of the kitchen of the Osteria Totò Eduardo e Pasta e Fagioli, a restaurant in Naples, Italy, on July 13th 2019.<br />
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The name of the Osteria is dedicated to the two masters of Neapolitan theatre and cinema: Totò (Antonio de Curtis) and Eduardo de Filippo. The idea came from Mario Bianchini, an aficionado of Neapolitan culture who wanted to pay tribute to his wife Rosaria de Curtis, a distant relative of Totò, the most famous actor in the history of Naples.<br />
The osteria was founded in the 1970s by Mario Bianchini who wanted to base its menu on traditional Neapolitan dishes. Mr Bianchini learned the art of cooking from his mother Anna.
    CIPG_20190713_CULBACK-TotoEduardo_M3...jpg
  • TORRE ANNUNZIATA, ITALY - 3 JANUARY 2020: A pan of pasta with eggplants, tomatoes and provola cheese is seen here cooking in the kitchen of Doc Sicil Oplontis, a delicatessen and small restaurant in Torre Annunziata, Italy, on January 3rd 2020.<br />
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Doc Sicil Oplontis is next to the excavations of Oplontis archeological site, a World Heritage Site since 1997.<br />
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The idea of expanding the delicatessen into a small restaurant came about 20 years ago when John Clarke, an American archaeologist and Professor of Archeology at the University of Austin, Texas, came here to Oplontis for an Archaeological Excavation campaign.<br />
Professor Clarke came here every day to make sandwiches for his students from the University of Austin. But at lunchtime there were also many students from the adjacent school and he could not speak to his own students during the break. So the Professor asked Antonio if he could set up a small room for him where he could have a quick lunch with his students and also take stock of the situation every day.
    CIPG_20200103_CULBACK_Oplontis_M3_60...jpg
  • SAN PIETRO VERNOTICO, ITALY - 4 APRIL 2014: Cinzia Rascazzo (40, right), founder of a Lecce cooking and food-tour outfit called Stile Mediterraneo, serves the fresh orecchiette and cavatelli pasta with tomato sauce she prepared with her sister and business partner Marika (42, cardiologist, left) and their mother Dina (68, retired school teacher, center) at her parents' home and school location in San Pietro Vernotico, Italy, on April 4th 2014.<br />
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Mrs Rascazzo, an extra virgin oil taster, wine sommelier and Harvard MBA who worked for Goldman Sachs in New York and London, quit investment banking several years ago to “do something to help my region”.“When I was living abroad I always noticed that only Tuscany and Northern Italian regions were getting all of the attention,” said Ms. Rascazzo. “Nobody knew about Puglia or our way of eating, or our wines, or our producers. It was just Mafia, pizza spaghetti--the usual things associated with the south.” Today she conducts food tours, leads visits to local producers and oversees cooking classes, where guests learn to make orecchiette, sweet-and-sour bell peppers, cakes with ricotta cheese and much besides. She is frequently joined by her sister, who draws on her medical background to impart scientific and nutritional details about the dishes. Dr. Rascazzo’s recipes and information come together in her English ebook, “The Cuisine of Southern Italian Women: Mediterranean Secrets for a Healthy and Happy Life.”
    CIPG_20140404_NYT_LecceCooking__M3_5...jpg
  • SAN PIETRO VERNOTICO, ITALY - 4 APRIL 2014: Cinzia Rascazzo (40, center), founder of a Lecce cooking and food-tour outfit called Stile Mediterraneo, serves the fresh orecchiette and cavatelli pasta with tomato sauce she prepared with her sister and business partner Marika (42, cardiologist, left) and their mother Dina (68, retired school teacher, right) at her parents' home and school location in San Pietro Vernotico, Italy, on April 4th 2014.<br />
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Mrs Rascazzo, an extra virgin oil taster, wine sommelier and Harvard MBA who worked for Goldman Sachs in New York and London, quit investment banking several years ago to “do something to help my region”.“When I was living abroad I always noticed that only Tuscany and Northern Italian regions were getting all of the attention,” said Ms. Rascazzo. “Nobody knew about Puglia or our way of eating, or our wines, or our producers. It was just Mafia, pizza spaghetti--the usual things associated with the south.” Today she conducts food tours, leads visits to local producers and oversees cooking classes, where guests learn to make orecchiette, sweet-and-sour bell peppers, cakes with ricotta cheese and much besides. She is frequently joined by her sister, who draws on her medical background to impart scientific and nutritional details about the dishes. Dr. Rascazzo’s recipes and information come together in her English ebook, “The Cuisine of Southern Italian Women: Mediterranean Secrets for a Healthy and Happy Life.”
    CIPG_20140404_NYT_LecceCooking__M3_5...jpg
  • SAN PIETRO VERNOTICO, ITALY - 4 APRIL 2014:  Dina Palmisano (68, retired school teacher) cleans the wooden board used to dry the fresh orecchiete and cavatelli pasta she prepared together with her daughters  Cinzia Rascazzo (40), founder of a Lecce cooking and food-tour outfit called Stile Mediterraneo, and Marika (42, cardiologist) in her house and school location in San Pietro Vernotico, Italy, on April 4th 2014.<br />
<br />
Mrs Rascazzo, an extra virgin oil taster, wine sommelier and Harvard MBA who worked for Goldman Sachs in New York and London, quit investment banking several years ago to “do something to help my region”.“When I was living abroad I always noticed that only Tuscany and Northern Italian regions were getting all of the attention,” said Ms. Rascazzo. “Nobody knew about Puglia or our way of eating, or our wines, or our producers. It was just Mafia, pizza spaghetti--the usual things associated with the south.” Today she conducts food tours, leads visits to local producers and oversees cooking classes, where guests learn to make orecchiette, sweet-and-sour bell peppers, cakes with ricotta cheese and much besides. She is frequently joined by her sister, who draws on her medical background to impart scientific and nutritional details about the dishes. Dr. Rascazzo’s recipes and information come together in her English ebook, “The Cuisine of Southern Italian Women: Mediterranean Secrets for a Healthy and Happy Life.”
    CIPG_20140404_NYT_LecceCooking__M3_5...jpg
  • SAN PIETRO VERNOTICO, ITALY - 4 APRIL 2014: Cinzia Rascazzo (40), founder of a Lecce cooking and food-tour outfit called Stile Mediterraneo, drops a fresh cavatello pasta she just prepared on a wooden board at her parents' home and school location in San Pietro Vernotico, Italy, on April 4th 2014.<br />
<br />
Mrs Rascazzo, an extra virgin oil taster, wine sommelier and Harvard MBA who worked for Goldman Sachs in New York and London, quit investment banking several years ago to “do something to help my region”.“When I was living abroad I always noticed that only Tuscany and Northern Italian regions were getting all of the attention,” said Ms. Rascazzo. “Nobody knew about Puglia or our way of eating, or our wines, or our producers. It was just Mafia, pizza spaghetti--the usual things associated with the south.” Today she conducts food tours, leads visits to local producers and oversees cooking classes, where guests learn to make orecchiette, sweet-and-sour bell peppers, cakes with ricotta cheese and much besides. She is frequently joined by her sister, who draws on her medical background to impart scientific and nutritional details about the dishes. Dr. Rascazzo’s recipes and information come together in her English ebook, “The Cuisine of Southern Italian Women: Mediterranean Secrets for a Healthy and Happy Life.”
    CIPG_20140404_NYT_LecceCooking__M3_5...jpg
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