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AMALFI, ITALY - 29 APRIL 2013: Luigi Aceto (78), nicknamed Gigino, is here in his lemon field in Amalfi, Italy, on March 29th 2013...Mr. Aceto was born and raised in these lemon groves, where his family has been working for centuries, first as tenant farmers, then as landowners. In 1992, Luigi Aceto co-founded with his children the The Amalfi Citrus-Fruit Processing Co-operative, which initiated a campaign to increase awareness of their particular "Amalfi Sfusato" lemon, the quality and characteristics of which are unique in the world...Today, family businesses with fewer than 15 employees make up 90 percent of Italy's economy. The Acetos make a niche product ? world-famous lemons, prized for their low acidity and delicate flavor ? and like many small Italian businesses, they are reluctant to grow, preferring quality over quantity, tradition over expansion. Mr. Aceto wants the lemon groves and the business to stay in the family.

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©2013 Gianni Cipriano / The New York Times
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20130429_NYT_Amalfi
AMALFI, ITALY - 29 APRIL 2013: Luigi Aceto (78), nicknamed Gigino, is here in his lemon field in Amalfi, Italy, on March 29th 2013...Mr. Aceto was born and raised in these lemon groves, where his family has been working for centuries, first as tenant farmers, then as landowners. In 1992, Luigi Aceto co-founded with his children the The Amalfi Citrus-Fruit Processing Co-operative, which initiated a campaign to increase awareness of their particular "Amalfi Sfusato" lemon, the quality and characteristics of which are unique in the world...Today, family businesses with fewer than 15 employees make up 90 percent of Italy's economy. The Acetos make a niche product ? world-famous lemons, prized for their low acidity and delicate flavor ? and like many small Italian businesses, they are reluctant to grow, preferring quality over quantity, tradition over expansion. Mr. Aceto wants the lemon groves and the business to stay in the family.